TIMING BELT: The 3S-GTE engine is a non interface engine, which means that should the timing belt break you won't bend valves. This is good for piece of mind, but the timing belt should still be replaced at the recommended interval. The procedure for replacing the timing belt is well outlined in the Workshop Manual, should you wish to do this yourself. This is not a job I would recommend for those that have limited experience.

VALVE CLEARANCES: It is important to make sure that the valve clearances are correct. Too large a clearance will result in the valves not being opened far enough and performance will suffer, as well as the valve train components emitting a tapping noise. Too small a clearance will result in the valves not seating, this will cause the engine to run poorly as well as the valves getting too hot, which may result in burnt or warped valves. This procedure is also outlined in the Workshop Manual, and requires the uses of a SST (special service tool). The procedure itself is not too difficult, but requires precise measurements of the valve shims.

ENGINE OIL: Oil changes are of high importance on a turbo engine, and should not be neglected. The use of a good quality synthetic oil will also help to keep your engine healthy. The oil level should also be checked on a regular basis, I check my oil level every morning, and it literally takes seconds, just open the hood remove the dipstick (there will be no need to wipe it, as the excess oil would have drained off the stick overnight), look at it and put it back in. Changing the oil is a simple procedure which anyone with very limited mechanical knowledge can do. Simply locate the oil drain bolt, located on the oil pan, place a container below it, remove it, and let the oil drain out. Remove the oil cap as well to help with draining. Next remove the oil filter, to get a good grip to remove it, I usually remove the duct that is on the back of the alternator, if you have an oil filter socket adapter, you will not have to remove anything. Before installing the new oil filter coat the seal with a little fresh oil, now screw it on until the seal makes contact and give it another 3/4 of a turn. Next inspect the oil drain bolt seal for any signs of damage, once it is O.K., replace the oil drain bolt, tightening to 29 ft/lbs using a torque wrench. Then fill up with fresh oil checking the dipstick as you fill to get to the correct level. Once you have filled up with fresh oil, replace the oil cap, start the engine and let it run for 3 minutes, and check for any leaks. Recheck the oil level and fill as neccessary.

ENGINE OIL FILTER: The oil filter should always be changed with every oil change. For information about the procedure of changing the filter see Engine Oil.

ENGINE COOLANT: The cooling system plays a vital role in keeping your engine running safely, and all to often it is neglected. I personally recommend changing the fluid every 42,000kms, to ensure good cooling and lubrication. There are many brands of coolant available now, and I will leave it up to you to research and pick the one you like. As for flushing the coolant, I find the drain bolt for the engine to be in a difficult position to get at, and as such I bought a back flush kit from Prestone, which is even better than just draining, but because of the design of the cooling system, I had to make some changes as to what the instructions on the kit said. Should you purchase one of these kits and wish detailed instructions, e-mail me and I will explain. Another thing that should be done as well is the inspection of the radiator fins for blockage, on the ST185 the radiator is behind the A/C condenser, so you need to remove any large pieces of debris from in front the condenser. I usually remove the radiator (an easy job) and wash the fins thoroughly about every 10,000kms, then I place the hose in such a position as to spray water from the back of the condenser to the front, and wash that thoroughly.

EXHAUST PIPES AND MOUNTS: This is a fairly simple procedure, especially if you have access to a ramp or a lift. Simply check the exhaust for signs of corrosion, slack joints, and check the rubber mounts for cracks.

AIR FILTER: For cars with the stock air filter setup, locate the four clips on the filter housing, and undo them. Lift the top of the box enough to be able to get the filter out. Once you have the filter out inspect it's condition. If it is not very discolored and can be used again, turn the filter so that the dirty side is facing the top of a counter or table and gently tap it on the table or counter to remove loose debris, if it is too dirty it will need replacing, then place it back in the housing and fasten the four clips. For cars with performance filters, I would recommend inspecting the filter much more regularly, and cleaning or replacing, depending on the type of filter you have, when needed.

FUEL LINES & CONNECTIONS: This is fairly self explanatory, you just need to make sure the hoses and lines are in good condition and don't show any signs of cracks or stains from fuel leakage. For this inspection I like to have the fuel actually flowing in the lines. The easiest way is to just turn the car on, but you can also use the diagnostic box located near the left side of the fire wall (back of engine bay) and flip open the lid, a chart is on the inside of the lid, and using a piece of wire bent in a "U" shape bridge the terminals +B and Fp, next turn the ignition on (don't start the car). Fuel will now flow through all the lines.

FUEL TANK CAP GASKET: Change the gasket at the recommended interval, 96,000 kms.

SPARK PLUGS: If you are using the stock platinum plugs they should give you plenty of mileage, about 96,000 kms, however I still recommend changing them at about 75,000 kms. I use copper racing plugs, and as such have to replace them more regularly. Copper is a better conductor than platinum, and as such ensures good spark, but the down side is that copper doesn't last as long. To change the plugs, remove the intercooler (click here for details), then remove the spark plug wire boots, do not grip the wire, grip the boots. Using the correct spark plug socket remove the spark plugs. Next replace them with the new spark plugs, make sure the plugs you bought have the correct electrode gap, also when replacing plugs, you should screw them in gently. If the plug becomes hard to turn, chances are the threads are not lined up properly, remove and try catching the threads again, the last thing you want to do is strip the threads in the head. Sometimes due to carbon build up on the threads, old plugs are a little stiff during removal, but I have never had to use any force to screw in a new spark plug. Tighten the spark plugs to between 13-15 ft/lbs of torque, push the spark plug wire boots back on until they fit snug, and replace the intercooler.

CHARCOAL CANISTER: Remove the charcoal canister. There should be 2 nozzles on the top and 1 on the bottom. Locate the smaller nozzle on the top and block it off with your finger, next using low pressure air, blow into the other nozzle on the top. AIr should come out easily, and no charcoal should come out. If there is resistance and/or charcoal comes out, replace the canister.

BRAKE LINE PIPES & HOSES: Inspect the brake line pipes and hoses for any signs of leakage or cracking, and repair immediately if suspect, the brake system is very important.

REAR BRAKE DRUM: Inspect the rear brake drums, check the parking brake shoes for wear and then check the parking brake shoe clearance. Adjust, repair or replace as necessary. Also check the parking brake lever, there should be 4-7 clicks from the down position to the up position.

BRAKE PADS & DISCS: The ST185, has disc brakes all around, which means you will have to check both front and rear. Remove the wheel and check the wear of the brake pads. I also like to remove the caliper installation bolt, slide the caliper off, and check the condition of the sliders, you should be able to slide the caliper assembly easily, as well as the slider that the installation bolt goes thorough. If you have a dial indicator with a magnet stand, or can borrow one, you could also check the run-out on the discs. If you have just purchased the car as a used car, it would also be a good idea to check the disc thickness to make sure it is not below minimum thickness (most discs, have this figure stamped on the inside of the disc).

TIRE PRESSURE: The correct tire pressure is more important than people think, and is often neglected. Correct pressures will give your car better gas mileage, better performance, and more safety. I would recommend you purchase a good tire gauge, and check your tire pressures regularly. Do not check your tires after just driving the car, the best time is on a morning before you have used the car for the day. If I find that my tires are low on air, I usually set the gas station pump to a little above what I usually use, as the gauges on these pumps are often not accurate, and then recheck the next morning, letting out air until the desired tire pressure is achieved.

POWER STEERING FLUID: You should check you power steering level at the recommended interval. A quick note on how a low level of power steering can mislead someone into thinking the car has a serious problem. A low level will cause the power steering pump to create a groaning noise, as it gets air in it, should you ever hear this check your fluid first. Should your fluid run this low, start the engine and turn the steering all the way to the left and shut off the engine. Add fluid to the "Cold" level. Next start the engine and run it. Stop the engine and check the level again, add to the correct mark as needed. Start the engine and bleed the system by turning the steering all the way from left to right about 4 times. Stop and recheck the fluid level, top up as necessary.

DRIVE SHAFT BOOTS: The ST185 being a four wheel drive has drive shaft boots both front and rear. These should be inspected as often as possible for signs of cracking. If the boots crack and are left undetected, the drive shafts can be damaged over a period of time, turning a fairly inexpensive repair into a very costly one.

GEARBOX, DIFF, & REAR DIFF OIL:  There's a lot of debate over which oil to use in these gearboxes, and if you checked out the mailing list archives, you will probably have noticed that Redline seems to be the popular choice. Whatever your choice, you should replace the oils at the recommended interval. I recommend sticking to a GL-5 oil, syncros are cheaper than gears.

BOLTS & NUTS ON CHASSIS & BODY: If you live in an area that has harsh road conditions, i.e lots of bumps and potholes, it is recommended that you check certain bolts and nuts for the correct torque. The parts to check are front and rear suspension member to cross body and strut bar bracket to body bolts.

CLEAN INTERCOOLER: The intercooler on the ST185 is located above the engine, which makes on the car cleaning not recommended. The more dirt and grime that accumulates inside the intercooler, and in the cooling fins on the outside, the less efficient the intercooler will become, for this reason, it should be cleaned on a regular basis. On my car I have the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) hose run to a catch can instead of back into the intake, this keeps the inside of the intercooler clean for much longer, therefore I only spray some carburetor cleaner in the intercooler, shake it up and pour it out. I always spray into the side that connects to the throttle body, and let it drain out the side that connects to the turbo. For the outside I simply spray some engine cleaner over the whole thing, let it set for a few minutes and then rinse the fins thoroughly with a strong spray of water. It is best to block the two openings when doing this, and also to spray the water from the bottom of the intercooler through the top.  To remove the intercooler, first remove the plastic clips that hold the intercooler cool air inlet (the black rubber thing on the side of the intercooler), next remove the intercooler protector, by unscrewing the three bolts (10mm) holding it on. Now you can remove the rest of the clips holding the cool air inlet, and remove this. Remove the two (12mm) bolts on either side of the intercooler that hold it on. Slacken off the two hose clamps (10mm) on the hose at the entry pipe of the intercooler, and slacken off the clamp (10mm) on the rubber hose attachment at the exit pipe of the intercooler. Now slide the hose attached to the entry pipe down a little and holding the entry pipe pull the intercooler until it comes out of the hose. It will be fairly tight. Installation is the opposite of removal.

CHECK FAULT CODES & CHARGING RATE: Two things I like to check regularly are for fault codes, and the charging rate of the car. Both are quick and easy to do. The procedure for checking for fault codes is listed here. I like to check the codes regularly, so if I do get a code, I know it wasn't logged about 10,000 kms ago, and it had to be fairly recent. For example, you are working on the car and forget to connect the TPS, the car will still start, but a fault code will be logged, you realize you left it off, and reconnect it. 10,000kms later your car isn't working quite right, and you check for codes, and sure enough you find a fault code indicating the TPS, you are now on the wrong path. To check the charging rate simply hook up a good quality volt meter to the battery with the car running about 2,000 rpm, and check the voltage reading, it should be between 13.5 and 15.1 There is a more involved method for checking the charging rate, but I find this simple test does just as good.

CHECK BRAKE FLUID LEVEL: This is one never to be ignored. Every morning I check my oil, and at the same time glance over at the brake fluid reservoir. Again a procedure that takes only seconds to complete, but is very important.