Crest Jewel Direct in Red. Belays in Yellow, Crest Jewel in Blue
Dan's Beta

Right where the North Dome Gully trail emerges onto the North Dome/Washington Column saddle, there is a large boulder with a stack of rocks on it marking the North Dome Gully trail. (Baba's note: if coming from Royal Arches, this is the boulder that you pass just as you leave the top of Washington Column and drop down slightly to traverse across to get to the gully) Go behind this boulder on a good trail that heads through manzanita and oak for about 50 feet. When you get through the bushes (they're not bad), head straight up the rocky/sandy slope until it ends at a medium sized sloping boulder. The trail goes left and wanders across another small boulder field heading toward a large Jeffery pine up higher. The trail should be fairly well marked and visible from our many trips up and down it. You can't go wrong. Your destination is the highest point of the large slab several hundred feet below and left of the start of Crest Jewel. (Baba's note: Past the pine, you climb up a ramp along a slab up and right. It's well marked)

Pitch 1:
Once you're at the highest point of the slab, you will notice a faint dike running up and left. Two bolts protect this section which leads to easier climbing that trends up and right in dishes. It's a short pitch that ends in about 90 feet. (5.8)

Pitch 2:
Follow the obvious thin dike up and right to the belay. (10a)

Pitch 3:
This thin and steep pitch is short and follows the line of bolts straight up and over a small roof to the next belay a little higher and to the left. (10d)[bolts were set close enough here to be French freed if need be.]

Pitch 4:
Climb up and onto a prominent dike that leads up and right to the next belay. (5.9 move, the rest is easy)

Pitch 5:
Climb up following the line of bolts to the next belay which is the end of the first pitch of the regular Crest Jewel.

From here, 9 more pitches lead to the top.

Rack: Quickdraws and long runners

You can check for lots of Beta on Crest Jewel Regular route on Supertopo.com

You want secret Crest Jewel Direct Beta that will disqualify you from a true onsight? Click here!

Back to Trip Report Index

Back to Crest Jewel Direct Trip Report

Back Home

Email Me